What do the words ‘São Paulo’ evoke for you?
Speed, drive, and resilience. An acquired taste.
What is your first memory of São Paulo?
The Luz Station, the train station where I used to go when I would visit the city with my parents as a kid. Jardim da Luz, the oldest park in the city, sits right across from it, and at the time I thought that’s where the city ended – I thought nothing else existed beyond that point. Today the park has a contemporary sculpture garden and is also home to the Pinacoteca de São Paulo (also known as the ‘Pina’) and the new Pina Contemporânea. Next to the station itself we have the Museu da Língua Portuguesa. Plus, Júlio Prestes, another station nearby, has been transformed into a stunning music hall, the Sala São Paulo.
Where do you feel most at home?
I love downtown São Paulo. I like to walk around Edifício Copan, an iconic modernist building by Oscar Niemeyer that has become a postcard for the city and a cultural hub, with design and art events. You can even rent a flat and experience the architecture from within. Across the street, you can find Galeria Metrópole, another modernist building, by Gian Carlo Gasperini and Salvador Candia. I used to go there during college in the 1970s and now, after a long hiatus, the space is coming back to life. A new generation of designers have opened small studios there, attracting all sorts of independent businesses like thrift shops, bookstores, bakeries, wine bars, and cafes.
What is the mark of a true Paulistano?
Hardworking and professional. Always aiming high, regardless of background or social status.
Which famous figure best embodies São Paulo?
Several people come to mind: artist Regina Silveira; poet and singer-songwriter Arnaldo Antunes; rapper, singer, and songwriter Emicida. There’s also the late architect Paulo Mendes da Rocha, who created unique landmarks in the city, and theater director José Celso Martinez Corrêa, who recently passed away. Known as Zé Celso, he revolutionized Brazilian theater at Teatro Oficina, a one-of-a-kind venue designed by Lina Bo Bardi, where the stage and the audience merge. All of them represent the best of the city through different artistic expressions.
Your favorite place for breakfast?
Cuia Café e Restaurante on the ground floor of the Copan – it’s located inside a great bookstore and has a good menu [that prioritizes] Brazilian ingredients.
Where are the best boutiques?
I am not much into shopping but I am aware of some edgy brands by young designers, such as Handred near Rua Oscar Freire, Egrey in Jardins, and Misci in Pinheiros.
For gifts, I would recommend the shop Depósito Kariri in Pinheiros, which sells excellent Brazilian arts and crafts from different regions, including Indigenous objects. DPOT Objeto is a lovely place for unique design pieces. The concept store Casa Vogue Living Market just opened on Avenida Rebouças and has a great selection of Brazilian designer pieces. If you go there, you will also have the chance to see a massive, tiled panel by Fernando Campana and a couple of swing chairs that our studio designed for the building.
Who would be on the guest list for your dream dinner party in São Paulo?
My dearest and closest friends. I am a very private person.
Where do you go out in São Paulo?
On Saturdays I like to run on the Minhocão (officially the Via Elevada Presidente João Goulart), an elevated highway that crosses the heart of the city. On weekends, it is closed to traffic and only pedestrians can use it. And Parque Ibirapuera is not only a great place to run but also to see art. It’s home to the São Paulo Museum of Modern Art, Museu Afro Brasil, Oca, and the Ciccillo Matarazzo Pavilion, often referred to just as the ‘biennial pavilion.’ Across from the pavilion there’s also the Museu de Arte Contemporânea da Universidade de São Paulo. All of these buildings were designed by Oscar Niemeyer. It’s the crown jewel of São Paulo in my opinion.
Which artwork best represents São Paulo?
All the murals that are scattered around the city. They show the diversity and the pulse of the people who live here.
What is the craziest thing you’ve ever heard or seen on the streets of São Paulo?
A friend of mine, Silvana Tinelli, has a pet llama named Mafalda that she regularly takes for walks around the Jardins neighborhood, which is lined with beautiful houses and trendy shops. It’s very quirky and she causes quite a stir everywhere she goes.
What can you only do in São Paulo?
Work in my studio, my sacred temple, where I am free to create with my hands and add soul to my work. The space is filled with natural light and lots of plants, so for me it’s a spiritual place that inspires me to think about my well-being and that of others.
What do you miss most about São Paulo when you are away?
My home. I designed it and built it from scratch. It’s small, but very bright and warm. It’s my nest, it’s where I can rest my mind and recharge.
Your best advice for those visiting the biennial?
Pay attention to the biennial pavilion, a masterpiece by Niemeyer. This year, it will be even more special as the set design will create an architectural intervention; a new experience that will reveal a bold new way to interact with the interior of the entire building.
All photos by Isadora Arruda for Art Basel.
Published on September 11, 2023.