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<p>The  legendary fashion designer casts a new light on the world’s most exhibited artist</p>

Camille Bois-Martin

Paul Smith curates Picasso

<p>In collaboration with <em>Numéro art</em></p>
<p>‘This set design is the exact same creative and colorful universe in which I live!’, Paul Smith declares, enthusing about his exhibition at the Musée Picasso in Paris. In ‘Picasso Celebration: The Collection in a New Light’ the designer breathes new life into the museum’s permanent collection thanks to lots of color and the electric energy dear to the 76-year-old Briton. On the 50th anniversary of&nbsp;<a href="https://www.artbasel.com/catalog/artist/6746/Pablo-Picasso">Pablo Picasso</a>’s death (1881–1973), many institutions on both sides of the Atlantic are paying tribute to one of the most exhibited artists in the world. And who better than Paul Smith to take on such a project? Known and praised for his use of color and stripes, the designer, who launched his label in 1970 is a free spirit in the fashion world. Each season, he dabbles in everything that catches his attention, from fashion to design, cycling to cars... and curating exhibitions. </p>
<p>Across the three floors of the museum, Smith has imbued several rooms with his trademark bright colors. He takes visitors into a blue universe, in response to the paintings from Picasso’s melancholic period, then into a red and pink one echoing <em>Les Demoiselles d’Avignon </em>[1907], and on into a jazzy atmosphere, with the sounds of Thelonious Monk filling the room dedicated to the 1950s. The exhibition brings together dozens of masterpieces, thus highlighting the richness of the museum’s collection through what Smith calls his own ‘crazy’ and ‘eccentric’ lens. On this occasion, he looks back at four artworks that have made a big impression on him. </p>

<p><strong>When a bicycle saddle becomes a sculpture </strong></p>
<p>‘I was a professional cyclist from the age of 12 to 18. It’s been a while since I’ve cycled, but I’m still passionate about the sport and the events related to it. So, my decision to tell you about this sculpture made from a bicycle saddle was obvious! It links Picasso with me. But there is another connection too – I’m sitting in my studio, a large room filled with strange items that I have kept because they are beautiful, small, soft, big, hard... Like Picasso, I can create by drawing inspiration from objects that I reuse or collect. Actually, I think that the similarities in our creative processes are one of the reasons why the museum chose me for this exhibition.’ </p>

<p><strong>One of Picasso’s inspirations: theater permeates the exhibition </strong></p>
<p>‘The color mix in this painting moves me deeply. I would almost call it optimistic. Picasso had already portrayed himself in a harlequin costume 20 years earlier [in 1905], and here, in <em>Paul en Arlequin</em> [1924], he painted a portrait of his son – also named Paul! – in the same garish outfit. I first chose that painting because it echoed his family history, but above all because it referred to theater and Picasso’s theatrical approach in his work. From the start, I intended to design a theatrical setting, so, I placed <em>Paul en Arlequin </em>on a wall at the end of a corridor and covered the whole picture rail with the same yellow and blue diamond pattern. That way, the portrait can be seen from the two previous rooms: a revelation – a real <em>coup de théâtre</em>!’ </p>

<p><strong>Creating from scratch </strong></p>
<p>‘Picasso had been painting still lifes of animal carcasses for a long time, and suddenly in the 1950s, he developed a keen interest in animals and made this fantastic sculpture of a goat. If you look at the original plaster, the bust is made from an old basket, the spine from a palm leaf, and the legs from bottles. Then, he cast the whole thing in bronze. I can totally identify with that process of assemblage and looking at everyday objects and transforming them into something beautiful and unexpected. Above all, this sculpture bears witness to Picasso’s ability to reinvent himself throughout his career, from his dark and melancholic blue period to his luminous pink period, right up to cubism – a permanent desire for reinvention to which I can relate. I’ve been a fashion designer for a long time now, and I think my longevity in the industry can be compared to Picasso’s presence in the art world: we both are interested in everything and all art forms. I feel a connection between our creative processes and careers. And this exhibition is the proof.’ </p>

<p><strong>The striped sailor top and the sketches: an intimate Picasso </strong></p>
<p>‘In this very abstract drawing, Picasso depicted himself wearing his iconic striped sailor top. When I started thinking about the exhibition, I didn’t know much about his personal life, but the first image that came to my mind was the photograph of him wearing that top taken by Robert Doisneau [in 1952]. Alongside this self-portrait and the photos of him, I immediately thought about hanging multiple striped T-shirts from the ceiling! Paper works like this one are often seen as a preliminary work before the painting stage – they indicate a more personal, intimate side. If you look in my pocket, you will find a pencil and a notebook. I always have them with me, because I love the idea of being able to sketch anywhere, anytime, and to experiment with shapes and patterns on paper. The rough draft aspect of this drawing brings it closer to my practice. I really like that.’ </p>

<p>This article is part of a yearlong collaboration between Paris+ par Art Basel and <em>Numéro art</em>. Click <a href="https://www.numero.com/fr/exposition/paul-smith-musee-picasso-peinture-art">here</a> to read the original article.</p>
<p>‘Picasso Celebration: The Collection in a New Light’<br>Until August 27th<br>Musée Picasso, Paris, 3rd arrondissement</p>
<p>English translation: Numéro art.</p>
<p>Published on March 28, 2023.</p>
<p>Caption for full-bleed images:&nbsp;Installation views of ‘Picasso Celebration: The Collection in a New Light’, Musée Picasso, Paris, 2023. Courtesy of Musée Picasso Paris.</p>

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The  legendary fashion designer casts a new light on the world’s most exhibited artist

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