What does the word ‘Colombo’ mean to you?
I was told by the person trying to convince me to move to Sri Lanka that it has the lowest gravity point on the planet. This magnetic charge, combined with the oceanic drifts surrounding the city, seem to condition life here beyond human time.
Your first memory of Colombo?
Waking up in the Grand Oriental Hotel by the port and thinking: ‘I’m in another century!’
Where do you feel most at home?
The artist Vivan Sundaran once called me a migratory bird. I think he was right.
What is the mark of a true Colombo citizen?
Someone who picks up the word on the street and embraces irony to survive the failing political system.
Which famous figure best embodies Colombo?
There are many incredible characters. I don’t want to name drop.
Your favorite place for breakfast?
I’m happiest when having a screen-free breakfast at home but, if I’m in town, Seed Cafe is a great central option.
Where are the best boutiques?
My go-to is Barefoot, a store that has long promoted the best in design, art, and literature from across the island.
Guests at your dream dinner party in Colombo?
It would be a night of endless feasting and song with these queens: Audre Lorde, Miriam Makeba, Lala Rukh, Nilima Sheikh, and my latest poet crush, Aja Monet.
Where do you go out in Colombo?
I’m happiest when I don’t have to go out. When I do, SNAFU Project, the latest little cultural spot, is an easy drop-by.
Which artwork best represents Colombo?
Sri Lankan artist Abdul Halik Azeez chronicles the city’s people, moods, and secrets in images that he regularly posts on Instagram (@Colombedoiun).
What can you only do in Colombo?
Catching the old-school train that runs along the seashore.
What do you miss most about Colombo when you are away?
The urban wetlands.
Your best advice for those visiting?
Don’t get stuck in the bourgeois spots of Colombo 7: wander around to find your own scene.
Natasha Ginwala is the artistic director of this year’s Colomboscope in Colombo, Sri Lanka. Titled ‘Way of the Forest’, this edition of the interdisciplinary arts festival is on from January 19–29, 2024.
All photos and videos by Shehan Obeysekara for Art Basel.
Published on January 18, 2024.