In collaboration with Numéro art

On the occasion of the exhibition ‘Fragile Beauty: Photographs from the Sir Elton John and David Furnish Collection’ at London’s Victoria and Albert Museum, Newell Harbin, Director of the couple’s collection, evokes their story through five masterpieces.

Robert Mapplethorpe’s Self-Portrait

‘It’s difficult for me to reflect on this print without recalling its former place in Elton’s Atlanta residence. There, he housed an expansive glass collection, and Robert Mapplethorpe’s Self-Portrait (1985) featured prominently above a striking array of red and orange vertical glass which resembled flames. The arrangement whimsically portrayed Mapplethorpe as the devil, presiding over the living room! Only Elton and David, with their playful sense of humor, could infuse even more creativity into such an iconic self-portrait.’

A Tom Bianchi polaroid

‘I truly appreciate the way Elton and David integrate art into their lives, and especially their generosity in sharing it. Often they give a photograph to a close friend for a birthday or special celebration, and their friends reciprocate this generosity. This particular piece was a Christmas present from a dear friend who recognized the significance of Bianchi for the collection. The moment she laid eyes on this image, capturing a gracefully arching body in a casual beach handstand, she knew it was the perfect gift.’

The drag queen Divine seen by Peter Hujar

‘Elton’s extensive collection from the 1980s Downtown scene in New York City includes a remarkable array of Peter Hujar’s work, with over 20 prints now in his possession. One standout image features the iconic drag queen Divine, and captures the electrifying stage presence of this legendary cult figure. I had the privilege of having this print above my desk in the curator’s office for years. It felt like ‘Saint Divine’ was a constant, inspiring presence watching over me every day!’

Herb Ritts’ photographs, symbols of their budding love

‘The most memorable dating story is the one David shares about the early days of his courtship with Elton. One evening, after dinner, David noticed a Herb Ritts monograph on Elton’s coffee table. The two spent the rest of the evening flipping through the pages and talking endlessly about every image. With a shared passion for fashion, David and Elton’s collection of over 65 photographs by Ritts, not only reflects their appreciation for couture but also serves as a token of the photographer who brought them closer together.’

Chet Baker by Herman Leonard: an everlasting inspiration

‘Elton and David, being frequent subjects of photographs themselves, have a profound appreciation for fellow musicians, actors, directors, and artists who share that same experience. While the collection boasts a substantial amount of celebrity portraiture, they have focused on a select group of influential figures as well. Among them are Igor Stravinsky, Salvador Dalí, Truman Capote, and Chet Baker. With over 15 portraits of the jazz legend captured by various photographers, it’s evident what an inspiring figure he must have been. Each photographer manages to evoke a different emotion, contributing to the rich tapestry of Baker’s presence within the collection.’

Credits and captions

This article is part of an ongoing editorial collaboration with Numéro art. You can read the original article here.

‘Fragile Beauty: Photographs from the Sir Elton John and David Furnish Collection’
Until January 5, 2025
Victoria and Albert Museum, London

English translation: Numéro art.

Caption of the header image: Herb Ritts, Versace Dress (Back View), El Mirage, 1990 © Herb Ritts Foundation. Courtesy of Fahey Klein Gallery, Los Angeles.